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10 Tips for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint

10 Tips for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint. This is a great guide for beginners...with clever tips for all mediums of paint!

First things first, a ginormous thank you for all of the kind and generous words everyone shared over our Roll-Top Desk Makeover.  It definitely made it worth the countless hours of painting, painting, and more painting.  I think my favorite comment of the day on Tuesday was Melissa’s because it made me laugh (and I love to laugh):

Melissa's Comment

You have no idea how much joy it brings me to know that the term “mullet desk” has officially been coined.  And now, having earned that accolade, I think I can retire as a D.I.Y. blogger.

Then again, I’m having way too much fun to get out of the game now.  Time to pull a Michael Jordan!  I’m baaaaaack!  #thatwasquick

10 Tips for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint

Mark and I have painted many a furniture piece using latex paint, though none as challenging as the Roll-Top Desk.  Having conquered this one, though, I thought it might be useful to share some of our tips and tricks for working with this fantastic medium.

(Though pssst!  I’ll tell you a secret: many of these tips would apply to working with other types of paint, too.)

10 Tips for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint. This is a great guide for beginners...with clever tips for all mediums of paint!

Tip #1:  Use the best supplies for the job.  And don’t scrimp on paint.

You’ll be starting off on the right foot if you invest in supplies that will make your job easier and achieve the finish you are looking for.  Below is a list of recommended supplies for a typical furniture project.  And I’ll go into more detail about how to use these supplies in the tips to follow!

(Note: some of these links are affiliate links, meaning if you make a purchase after clicking through, I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.  Thanks for helping to support this site!)

PREP

PAINTING SUPPLIES

I’ll go into more detail as to how we have used these supplies in Tips #6, #7, #8, but here they are listed for your reference:

PAINT & PRIMER

When it comes to painting furniture with latex, don’t scrimp on quality.  If you do, you’ll end up needing to paint a few extra layers…which with a piece like a Roll-Top means several more hours of painting and dry time.  If you shop at Lowe’s their premium latex paint brand is Valspar.  At Home Depot, it’s Behr, which is what we used.

Behr even has a premium plus ULTRA line of paint that includes primer, which comes with rave reviews…but as you’ll see in Tip #5, we used a special Bondz primer for this painting project, so we stuck to their premium plus brand for that reason.  And I was very pleased with the quality!  It just took two coats to achieve full coverage.

Tip #1 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint. Use the right supplies to get the job done, and that includes NOT scrimping on paint quality. You'll pay for it later....

And I recommend buying paint samples in advance since things always look different on your piece than they do on the paint swatch.  Actually, we skipped that with the Roll-Top Desk since we were so eager to get started, and the “silver screen gray” was a tad lighter than we wanted.  So, we were sure to use Behr’s “ultra pure white” for the drawer fronts and stenciling to provide the greatest contrast against the gray.  We won’t skip that next time!

Tip #1 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint. Use the right supplies to get the job done, and that includes NOT scrimping on paint quality. You'll pay for it later....
Our color palette: Behr’s silver screen gray, ultra pure white, and gem turquoise.

Roll-Top Desk Makeover in process...tiny drawers drying in the daylight.

SEALANT

See Tip #10 for the skinny on these fabulous products:

Tip #2:  Choose and prepare an ideal workspace.

Tip #2 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint. Choose and prepare an ideal workspace. So many of these tips are easy to forget...but clearly, so important!Things to consider when choosing the proper space:

  • temperature: check your can of paint for recommendations, but the general consensus is that somewhere between 60º – 80º F is your ideal range.
  • ventilation: if you are in a small workspace, make sure you have windows and fans to help move the air during the drying time (keep the fans off while painting).
  • light: working in natural light is ideal…although, many painting projects will likely last into the night.  So, bring extra lamps into the workspace if needed.

Working in the natural light is the most ideal for furniture painting projects.

I think Mark and I severely underestimated this tip with our Black Distressed Table and Buffet projects.  Because living in Florida and attempting to paint in an open garage in the muggy summer weather is just plain foolish.  Not only did the heat and humidity vastly increase drying time, but we struggled with light and dust issues.  Sometimes, it’s better to work inside and transform one of your living spaces into a temporary workspace.

And that’s exactly what we did with our Roll-Top Desk Makeover.  We slept in our guest room for a few weeks and turned our Master Bedroom into a painting space.  Not only is this where we would eventually store the desk (so we didn’t have to break our backs trying to move it), but it was air-conditioned and well lit.

We were careful to mask the floor with brown builder’s paper and painter’s tape to protect from paint drips.  And we utilized as many surfaces as possible to help spread out the many drawers to dry, from our bed, which we covered in a tarp…

Tip #2 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint. Choose and prepare an ideal workspace. So many of these tips are easy to forget...but clearly, so important!

…to our hamper!

Tip #2 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint. Choose and prepare an ideal workspace. So many of these tips are easy to forget...but clearly, so important!

And of course, safety first!  I wore my valved respirator rather than breathe in the paint fumes for hours at a time.  And gloves were great for protecting the skin and making for easy clean-up.

10 Tips for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint. This is a great guide for beginners...with clever tips for all mediums of paint!

Tip #3:  Take time to prep your furniture.

Although you may want to dive right into painting once you’ve purchased your supplies, hold your horses!  It’s very important to prep your furniture for the painting process.  The time you invest up front will save you time in the end and improve the quality of your finished piece.  Here are a few of the ways to prep your furniture for painting:

  • If working on a solid piece that has an edge running across the floor, I recommend propping it up on a dolly, heavy-duty felt pads, or soft pine.  Not only can you more easily mask your floor with builder’s paper, but it will help you paint that bottom edge with ease.

Tip #3 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: Take time to prep your furniture.

Tip #3 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: Take time to prep your furniture.

  • Remove any removable elements like hardware, shelves, drawers (see Tip #4).
  • Sand any rough edges where a foam brush might catch.
  • Remove any sticky gunk with soap and water or one of my favorite products, Goo Gone.
  • Fill any holes with wood glue.
  • Make sure to give your furniture a good thorough clean before applying your primer.  If you sanded, use a damp rag to remove dust.  Even if you’re skipping the sanding step and the piece appears to be free of “gunk,” you still want to give it a once over with some warm soapy water.  I recommend using a mild dishsoap or a pre-paint cleaner like TSP.  Just make sure to follow it up with a final pass of clear water, so you don’t leave behind any soap residue.  And allow for ample dry time before applying your first coat.

Tip #3 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: Take time to prep your furniture. And that involves giving it a wash with warm soapy water!

Tip #4:  Organize hardware in ziplock bags.

First of all, take a few “before” photos of your furniture piece before disassembling it or taking a paintbrush to it.  This is especially helpful in jogging the memory if you have a good amount of hardware like we did with the Roll-Top Desk.  Also, I think in general, it’s rather fun to look back and see the dramatic transformation.  You can tack the photo beneath the tabletop or inside a drawer as part of its history!

Roll-Top Desk Makeover! Such a dramatic before & after. Amazing what fresh paint and a little vision can do!
Roll-Top Desk Makeover

I also recommend storing your hardware in labeled zip lock bags.  Don’t trust yourself to remember where every screw and knob goes.  Instead, label some clear bags and store your hardware there within.  It will make the process of re-installing 10x easier!

10 Tips for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint. This is a great guide for beginners...with clever tips for all mediums of paint!

Tip #4 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: When removing your hardware, store them in labeled ziplock bags to keep them organized and make reassembly easier!

Tip #5:  Make sure your first coat of paint has something on which to grip.

Usually, this means to sand your furniture first.  And for most of our pieces, we did just that.

However, for furniture with a lot of nooks, crannies, and drawers, where sanding would be a headache and a half, consider using a Bondz primer instead.  When I first read about this magical primer that allows you to skip the sanding step and yet gives the latex paint something on which to grip, I knew it would be perfect for the Roll-Top Desk.

Tip #5 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: Make sure your paint has something on which to grip...which means sanding or using the magical Zinsser Bondz Maximum Adhesion Primer!

The same rule applies for hardware.  If you don’t want the paint to peel, it’s needs something to grip to!  So, we gently sanded the brass hardware with a super fine grit sandpaper prior to spray-painting them to match the new drawer pulls we purchased.

Tip #5 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: Make sure your paint has something on which to grip...which means gently sanding hardware prior to spray painting!

And here’s a handy way Mark painted the screws: he dropped them into pre-drilled holes so he could easily spray their faces.  Clever, no?

Tip #5 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: Make sure your paint has something on which to grip...which means gently sanding hardware prior to spray painting!

Tip #6:  Use foam rollers and brushes for a smooth finish.

I did a lot of research and experimenting on how to achieve a smooth finish, since that’s the look we were going for with the Roll-Top Desk, and the winning formula was four-fold:

foam brushes + painting with the grain – over-brushing + gentle sanding of rough spots in between coats = a smooth, smooth finish

The foam roller was great for covering flat surface area when applying primer…

Tip #6: Use a foam roller when applying primer for a smooth finish on your furniture makeover.

…however, we used inexpensive foam brushes to achieve a smooth finish on the top coats.  Buy a bunch of them in a variety of sizes, and as soon as they start to break apart, just throw them away and start afresh.

Tip #6: Use foam brushes to achieve a smooth finish on your furniture makeover!

And sanding those rough spots after priming and after my first coat of gray helped keep things smooth, as well.  Just be sure to run over the piece with a damp rag to clear away any sanding dust.

Tip #6: Sand with a fine grit sandpaper after priming and after painting to achieve an ultra smooth finish on your furniture makeover!

Tip #7:  Use bristle brushes and distressing techniques for a rustic finish.

In the past, we’ve found that bristle brushes work best when you’re going for a rustic, distressed finish.

With our Black Distressed Table and Buffet Makeovers, we sanded the edges after our final black top coat, and then used a stain pen on the exposed edges to give it that Pottery Barn look.

Black Distressed Table Makeover - The Thinking Closet

Use a stain pen on the distressed edges of your piece of furniture | The Thinking Closet

With our IKEA Hacked Wardrobe and Side Tables, we used the dry-brushing technique, where we barely dipped our bristle brush in white paint and dry-brushed from side to side, going against the grain.  It gave it that beachy, whitewashed look.

Tip #7: Use a dry-brush technique against the grain if you're going for a more beachy, whitewashed vibe with your furniture makeover.

We even did the same technique on the pallet boards that make up the wardrobe back wall and shelves.

IKEA Hack: Pallet Shelves and Back Wall on our Whitewashed Fjell Wardrobe | The Thinking Closet

Tip #8:  Work from hand-held paint cups instead of the can.

Re-cap the cans as soon as you take the lid off; otherwise, you’ll find that the top layer of paint will quickly begin to harden into a filmy layer that gunks up your paint (think of that residue that forms atop soup as it cools).  Instead, pour some of the paint into a smaller container like a handy hand-held paint cup.

For speedy clean-up, line your mini paint buckets with plastic bags.  No more rinsing hardened paint from your cups prior to switching colors.  Just pour the excess paint back into your can and throw the bag away.  (Another stroke of genius from the hubby.)

Line your hand-held paint bucket with a plastic bag for quick n' easy clean-up. Genius!

Tip #9: Store wet brushes in the fridge to hit the pause button your project.

The Roll-Top Desk was a lonnnng project, and we didn’t often have 8 hours a day to devote to it like we did on the first day. So, when we took a break, we dropped our foam brushes in ziplock bags and stored them in the fridge. That was a trick I had picked up years back when working with acrylic paints…and the same applies for latex.  In fact, I have found with stenciling projects, it’s almost ideal to work with paint after it has been refrigerated for 24 hours or so.  Some of the liquid in the paint evaporates, making the paint extra thick (and you have less leakage beneath the stencil edges).

Tip #9: Store brushes and paint in the fridge in ziplock bags to hit the "pause" button on your project! Come back to your project the next day and your brush will be ready to go.

Tip #10:  To seal your latex paint, use a Water-Based Polycrylic Protective Finish.

We first learned about Polycrylic Protective Finish from a man we met through a Craigslist purchase.  He flipped furniture for a living and raved about its sealant powers.  Because it’s water-based, it doesn’t yellow furniture over time…very important for any project with light paints.

Now, it has taken us a bit of a journey to fall in love with Polycrylic, but now that we’ve figured out some of its nuances, we are fans for life.  There is one KEY tip for working with this sealant and that is not to overbrush.  That’s when you run into trouble.  As soon as your brush starts to stick rather than glide easily, you’ve over-brushed.  Many of the air bubbles will settle as it dries, so it’s best just to keep moving along rather than going back.

Tip #10 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: Water-Based Polycrylic is your Sealant of Choice. It won't yellow your paint over time!

Also, sometimes, we’ve found it can get tacky if you apply too many coats or apply your coats too thick without sanding in between.  So, with the Roll-Top, we just did one coat for the drawers and the back and two for the areas that will have more contact (the edges, stenciled area, desk top, beneath the desk where the chair lives).  Some gentle sanding in between coats and at least 24 hours of dry time in between helped us avoid that tacky finish that we unfortunately got on our Distressed Table Makeover.

Tips for using Polycrylic sealant on latex painted furniture.

And one gallon will go a long way.  We’ve been using this same gallon on several big pieces and look how much of our gallon was still have remaining:

Tip #10 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: Water-Based Polycrylic is your Sealant of Choice. It won't yellow your paint over time!

Also, as mentioned before, the Polycrylic comes in an Aerosol Spray in Clear Satin, which is great for hardware.  The Rust-O-Leum Comfort Grip Handle is still one of my favorite SWAG items that I took home from Haven last summer.  It’ll save your hand from cramping during those spray sessions!

Tip #10 for Painting Furniture with Latex Paint: Water-Based Polycrylic is your Sealant of Choice. It won't yellow your paint over time!

Pointers for Roll-Tops

A few of you were asking in the comments last week about how to deal with the roll-top part of a roll-top desk.  Now, I was very intimidated by that, as well.  I didn’t want to ruin the desk by clogging up the roll-top with paint!

Actually, a big reason why we chose to use Latex Paint on the Roll-Top Desk was because it is a thinner medium than Chalk Paint.  Also, I have never used Chalk Paint on furniture before (gasp!), and I didn’t think it would be wise to experiment on this piece.

{UPDATE: I have since tried Chalk Paint and fell in love.  Here’s my Beginner’s Guide to Annie Sloan Chalk Paint.}

Tips for Painting a Roll-Top Desk with Latex Paint! It's not as intimidating as it may seem at first.....

Here are a few pointers I’ll share for anyone interested in tackling their own roll-top desk:

  • Mark suggested I apply the paint at the most convex part of the roll top (where it has the most extreme curve).  So, I would actually hold up the roll-top and paint…slowly lowering it as I went.  That way, I’d get into all the grooves and avoid cracking.
  • When it came time to paint the groove on the side where the roll top slides down, I painted it with gray and sealed it with two coats of Polycrylic before rolling it down.  (This was after I had rolled it down prior to applying the Polycrylic and watched all the gray paint peel up.)

Tips for Painting a Roll-Top Desk with Latex Paint! The groove is the trickiest part....

  • There were also a few sections on the exterior of the roll-top where the paint was rubbing off during the rolling process, so I applied extra paint and Polycrylic to those spots, as well.
One of the trickier sections of a roll-top. Required extra paint and Polycrylic to protect it from rubbing off.
After the first coat of gray, I could see the spots that would need extra paint and sealant.
  • Mark added some foam stoppers to the edge of the roll-top that hits the desk, so we wouldn’t have any troubles with the paint sticking…especially while it still cures!
Tips for Painting a Roll-Top Desk with Latex Paint! It's not as intimidating as it may seem at first.....
You can see one of the stoppers here.

I’m happy to say the roll-top still rolls!  It’s a bit less smooth than it used to be, but my in-laws suggested we run a bar of soap or candle wax in the groove to help things glide more smoothly.

Tips for Painting a Roll-Top Desk with Latex Paint! It's not as intimidating as it may seem at first.....

Also, if it hadn’t been the height of summer, I might have considered getting some neighbors to help us move the Roll-Top outside so I could spray it with my FinishMax Sprayer.  I honestly think that would be such an ideal tool for a roll-top to achieve a thin coat of paint that gets into all the nooks and crannies.

Still, we made do!

Tips for Painting a Roll-Top Desk with Latex Paint! It's not as intimidating as it may seem at first.....
To see the grand reveal post, click HERE.

Other Posts in This Series

Oh my goodness, friends.  This is just the tip of the iceberg!  I have so many more things to share with you about this whole process of transforming the roll-top desk…so many more things that they merit multiple posts.  Click on the links below to hop around and explore them all.  It’s going to be a grand old time.

Plus, you can see the other dramatic transformations of our Rustic Nautical Master Bedroom Makeover:

To Close

Well, I hope you’re walking away from this post with some practical tips and tricks for tackling your next latex-painted furniture project.  Also, if you have any tips of your own up your sleeve, feel free to share them in the comments below.  Let’s explode these 10 tips into 100!

The Beginner’s Guide to Annie Sloan Chalk Paint

Since the initial publishing of this post, I dove into the wonderful world of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and shared about my experience making over our Hot Drinks Station in my Beginner’s Guide to Annie Sloan Chalk Paint.  So, if you’re intimidated by that medium, let me help allay those fears!  It’s another fantastic option for furniture makeover projects…especially if you want to skip the priming step.

The Beginner's Guide to Using Annie Sloan Chalk Paint & Wax: One Beginner's Tips to Another! | I let my intimidation over using Annie Sloan Chalk Paint keep me from exploring the medium for way too long. Now that I have finally given it a whirl, I'm eager to empower other beginners to give it a go. It's SO much easier than you think it is! Especially with this step by step run-down.
The Beginner’s Guide to Annie Sloan Chalk Paint

Full Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning that if you make a purchase after clicking through, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.  Thanks for helping to support this site!

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42 Comments

  1. I have a question your site did not address, I think:
    I just painted an old reproduction table with latex house paint that included primer. The color is exactly what I wanted, but I was considering a high gloss finish for the piece. You gave a recommendation for putting high gloss finish on hardware, but what would I use to finish the painted wood if I wanted a high gloss finish? Also, you mentioned waiting 30 days for the paint to cure before putting the finish on, but do you have a recommendation for how long to wait between coats of latex paint? Thank you, I love your projects and I’m so happy I found your site! I hope you can give me some advice.

    1. I know I’m a bit late to reply, but I’ll share my two cents below in case it’s helpful to others, as well. I’m a fan of Polycrylic sealer through and through. And they DO sell a glossy finish. You can either brush it on or they sell it in a can for spraying. It has been MANY years since publishing this post, but the internet tells me to wait 6 – 8 hours in between coats of latex paint. The longer you can wait, the better! Thanks for your kind words and very glad to have you here at The Thinking Closet! You’re welcome back anytime. Have fun with those furniture painting projects.

  2. I love all your tips! The desk came out beautiful! I have one question about the polycrylic- I used it once on a buffet that I refinished for a friend. It took on an amber hue over the white paint (I had to sand it down a little and paint another coat to fix it)! Have you experienced this?
    I just painted my desk a pale grey- I love how it came out, but I’m hesitant using the polycrylic over the top because of my past experience.

    1. Oh no! That does not sound good in the least. From my understanding, water-based polycrylic should NOT yellow your furniture paint whereas oil based polys like polyurethane will. Maybe you accidentally used an oil-based poly? If you’re certain you have a water-based polycrylic now, I’d do a small test spot on a part of your desk that isn’t too noticeable…just to be sure you’re pleased with the finish! Here’s to hoping it all goes fine and dandy.

  3. I’m curious to know if I can use chalk paint as a base for a good latex paint on wood furniture. Since there is very little prep with chalk paint, I thought perhaps I could use it instead of trying to sand intricate details of an antique vanity/desk.

    1. I don’t see why not! I think you’re right – – that the Chalk Paint would act as a good base coat for the latex paint and save you the laborious sanding step. I would just be sure to seal the latex paint with a Polycrylic sealer. I have some tips on working with latex paint in THIS post. Have fun with your project!

  4. hi, question is, can I put Arcylic craft paint over polycrlilic???I do put a medium mixed in. but after I wait for………how long do i wait for it to dry before ?polycrliic goes on? i have many projects i have to projects put together. my hands are very out of commis sion from all my work. so one tiny projects at a time.

    thank you are so great at this ?

  5. Hey Lauren! Thank you so much for all the expert tips on painting the roll up desk. In March, we are “going coastal” and I absolutely love your ideas. I have a desk I inherited from my grand mother (not a roll top, the desk platform swings down to open it), and I will be following your instructions! Happy New Year!

    1. Hooray! Welcome to the Coastal Club, Martha! I’m so excited for you and for the family desk project. I hope the tutorial serves you well. And just remember, it doesn’t need to be perfect to be a piece you love and use to your heart’s content. Have fun with the transformation!

  6. Hi. Would you recommend painting kitchen cabinets also in this way with latex? I always use enamel but latex is so much easier. Thx

  7. A lot of great tips! Some I use often, such as using a gallon sized ziplock bag in the paint cup. If you start inside out, you can zip it up for later if it isn’t too dry.

  8. Love your tips and all the great comments, thank you so much! I am in the middle of painting some dark wood corner shelving units with off white latex paint. I was a bit freaked out by the 30 day cure time. I may go nuts and put a water-based polycrylic on it.
    Oh, and I am in SW FL so this October heat… I painted indoors in the AC. 🙂

  9. That rust mask will do zero to protect from smelly toxic primers/ paint/ poly’s. Have to use a respirator with a multi use cartridge.

  10. The cans of paint you showed in your article are enamel which is oil based, not latex (acrylic) which is water based. Oil based paints clean up with mineral spirits and latex cleans up with water.

    1. Paula, you’re right about the Behr paint being enamel! Though I double-checked and this particular enamel paint is a water-based solution, which they recommend cleaning with soap and water. Thankfully, the tips still apply!

  11. I’m hoping I’ll get a response even though the post is a year old 🙂

    I bought Behr flat paint and I’m applying a stain over the paint for a distressed look. From tutorials I’ve watched, the stain should wipe right off but it’s not working. Have you tried this method before? Should I not have used a flat paint?

    1. I’ve actually never attempted that method of distressing – – I’m sorry, I wish I had more tips I could offer! I do have some tips for distressing in this post on Chalk Paint…perhaps you could try something else if the stain-atop-paint method doesn’t pan out? Also you could check in with your local Home Depot or Lowe’s painting section to see if one of their experts might be able to offer some help. Best of luck, Kelly!

    2. I’m sure it’s too late in coming to help you Kelly, but maybe some future reader will benefit from this advice: Do not apply stain or glaze or any other top-coat used in faux techniques over flat paint, it will not wipe off easily, which is generally what we’re wanting it to do to acheive our various paint looks. A semi gloss is the ideal base coat (in my furniture painting experiences, anyway), flat absorbs and doesn’t wipe well, while gloss and high gloss wipe too clean for most projects. Hope this helps someone not have to re-sand and repaint a piece of furniture!

  12. Hi – thanks so much for your tips! I just painted some wood furniture with acrylic paint (gray washed it) and having the Polycrylic ready to use. My question – how long do you wait from the time you painted to applying polycrylic?

    Thanks for your help!

    1. Acrylic paint is SUPER fast drying (in my experience), so I personally wouldn’t wait more than a few hours before sealing it. Of course, if you check different sources, some will say to wait 3 – 4 weeks to cure…but I’ve not had any problem sealing much sooner with our latex paint pieces. So, use your best judgment…consider experimenting on a small portion…and good luck!

  13. This article has helped us so much! We are re-doing a desk with drawers. We used bear paint but used foam rollers to apply paint since the areas are flat.
    We encounter a big problem tho, the paint didn’t cover very well and I guess over painting it caused the paint to get tacky. Is there any solution to this? Or we need to completely sand it down and start over? Will it help if we apply a light coat of the sealer?

  14. Nice write up. Can you tell me if the paint you used was flat or semi gloss? Have you ever done a piece using semi gloss and skipping the polycrylic? Thanks

    1. Our paint was satin finish if I recall. If it’s something that won’t get much wear / tear, it’d be no problem to leave out the polycrylic sealant. But something like a desk, table, or chair, I’d definitely seal it to protect the finish. Best of luck!

  15. I see you used a foam brush on your polycrylic finish. I read that you should only use a polycrylic brush. What do you recommend?

    1. We’ve used bristle brushes (though not Polycrylic brand) and foam brushes and find the smoothest, thinnest finish has come with a foam brush – – but the second they start to disintegrate, we have to throw them out. So, be sure to have a few on hand when you start.

      Also, I was curious about any comparison reviews that may be out there, so did a little Google researching and came across this interesting Amazon review of the polycrylic brush that is not in favor of its use because it lays on the coats a little too thick. I will say that a thin coat is KEY to avoiding that tacky finish and we’ve been able to get that with a foam brush. Have fun experimenting. 😉

  16. Great infomation i was going to give away an old dresser and night stand. After reading your information, I think i’ll try painting it instead.
    Thanks for the great tips.
    Kimmie

  17. What a great piece! Looks fantastic. I am new to this painting thing and I experiment along the way. Your process looks relatively easy when compared to others I’ve seen. I want to paint my kitchen cabinets along with some distressing. Would you recommend using this same process? I am not sure whether to use latex or chalk paint. I am looking for durability as well as a nice looking finished product. Your input would be great. 🙂

    1. I’ve definitely heard great success stories in painting cabinets with chalk paint. I’m pretty new to the Chalk Paint world myself, but there are seasoned painters who have gone before us and shared their many tips and tricks. I would recommend doing some research (just google “painting cabinets with chalk paint” and you’ll see a bevy of resources pop up…even an article on the Annie Sloan website). And then, I’d also experiment first on some furniture, just so you can get the hang of using the product before diving into the big kitchen makeover. But I think it would be easier to apply the wax as a sealant than say Polycrylic, so I’d definitely look into this option! Let me know what you end up doing!

  18. This is a really nice, clear, easy to understand explanation of how you do things. I really appreciate it as I’m preparing to paint the cabinets, commode, dresser, and closet of my new tiny house on wheels. This is so exciting! Thanks for so much gentle encouragement!

  19. I painted an old chai and it has been “drying” for weeks.it is still tacky. I can mark it with a fingernail. What did I do wrong? What can I do to fix it?

    1. The tackiness from Polycrylic can be from laying on the layer too thick or not allowing enough dry time in between coats (if you do multiple coats). Our dining room table has a tackiness to it, as well. So, when we did the Roll-Top Desk, we were sure to just do one sealant coat on most surfaces…two on areas that get more wear and tear (with sanding in between). How is it faring now?

  20. Super tips and execution. I am in the middle of a project and contemplated foam brushes and rollers and opted against 🙁 I wish I’d read this sooner, they give a much better finish. Hmmm maybe I will sand back and start again. Thanks for sharing!

  21. This is amazing! I’m pinning it for when I have time to paint some furniture! I just love that you still have that Go Girl Go t-shirt!

  22. Thanks for all these tips, Lauren. Painting furniture the right way is definitely a labor of love! I gotta try sealing the paint the next time I tackle painting furniture. Love how your piece turned out!

  23. Fantastic tips, Lauren! My favorite is lining the paint bucket with a bag! Genius!! Tom & I have stored our brushes in the fridge or even freezer before. It’s so helpful to be able to pick back up where you left off and not have a crusty brush to clean out!

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